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When compiling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.